Sad But True

After a few days, my 7 litters now gone. 4 of them was eaten by its mother, Snowy and 3 of it die of unattended care by its mother. I was away on my 3 days meeting with my department so I ask one of my friend to take care of the bunnies. He's the one who call me and tell me what was happened. I think Snowy is still young and still didn't know how to take care and manage her own litters. She didn't even prepare the nest like normally rabbit do. I think she'll be rested for a few weeks and I'm looking forward to find the best solution for this case.

I didn't blame the doe for this. This is entirely my fault. I think the nestbox that i provide aren't private enough for them. So, I must use a new design nestbox, maybe like a cave. This is a reminder for me.

I found this article in the net and it's may be the reason why this is happening.

"Rabbit Cannibalism

This situation can be caused by a variety of conditions like when the does become excited by an environmental change or when the nutritional status (usually water) is restricted.
Eating young often occurs when varmints, household pets, rodents, or some other unusual visitor enters the rabbitry soon after the doe has delivered her young. The eating of young is an instinctive survival response of the doe. Restrict all animals and visitors from entering or roaming near the rabbitry. The problems often occur at night when rodents and varmints are more active.
Other concerns include a check of the water supply system to assure that adequate amounts of fresh, cool water are available and use vitamin/electrolyte supplements in the drinking water during hot periods. Adding electrolytes (salts) increases water consumption. If water is not flushed frequently from overhead water pipes during hot weather, the water may become too hot for drinking. The does may not drink enough water and cannibalism may result. All hot water in these pipes should be flushed at mid-afternoon."

Courtesy of : Misissippi Agricultural and Forestry Experiment Station - MSU

My Latest Addition : 7 Little Pinkies

Tonite, I was lucky to witness one of my bunny (Snowy) gave birth.

With no signal and after 64 days of waiting, she gave birth to 7 litters.

I'm a bit worried because as we know, the doe only have 6 nipples. How can she nurse and breastfed 7? I have to make sure that all 7 survive. But I don't have another nursing doe. Maybe I have to manual fed one of them. That is to be seen tomorrow.

I'll upload their pictures later.

Rabbit Meat Recipe #01

Sweet and Sour Rabbit Recipe

1 or 2 1 can 1 8 1 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

rabbits, cut pineapple pieces green pepper, chopped tomatoes, chopped onion, finely chopped brown sugar vinegar soy sauce corn flour Salt and Pepper to taste

Large sauce pan or heat resistant roasting dish Cooking time - 1 hour 20 minutes

Place all the ingredients except the corn flour into a heat proof dish simmer gently on top of the stove for 1 hour or until the meat is tender. When rabbit has cooled remove meat and chop into small pieces. Mix corn flour with a little water add to heat proof dish bring to boil stirring all the time. Add the pieces of rabbit back in the dish with the sauce, reheat and pour into a serving dish. Serve with rice.

The Way We Eat: Rabbit is Rich

New York Times Magazine dated March 12, 2006, featured an article by Randy Kennedy: “The Way We Eat: Rabbit is Rich,” that made me salivate.

For one thing, rabbit, though I have eaten it only a couple of times and cooked it only once, is one of my favorite meats of all time, so of course it got my juices going. For another thing, the article contained a wealth of recipes, including one that sounds pretty much like the unforgettable dish I ate at a tiny, very lovely little Italian restaurant in Boston (do I remember the name–no–this is why I don’t review restaurants, but I sure do remember the dish): Rabbit Ragu With Pappardelle.

Finally, it is an article obviously meant to spread the gospel on the fact that rabbit is good food that should be more widely available and eaten throughout the US. Unfortunately, it suffers from various image issues; to some it is “poor people food” right up there with raccoon and possum (raccoon is nasty; I cannot speak from personal experience on possum, but I know what they eat and it doesn’t make me want to eat them), while others simply cannot stomach the idea of eating something as cute, fluffly and cuddly as a bunny. To the latter folks, I usually point out that I have known domesticated rabbits to attack people and other animals, including dogs. They are not all cute little cuddlers, and their teeth and claws are plenty sharp enough to inflict painful wounds. I also offer as evidence that rabbits can be vicious the incident where President Jimmy Carter was attacked by a crazed rabbit who tried to climb aboard the president’s fishing boat and bite him. President Carter fought off the wicked lagomorph with a paddle, and then had pictures taken to prove that it was indeed a rabbit who jumped him. (Perhaps the wild bunny had been trained as an assassin by a terrorist organization; more likely, it had a wild hare up it’s…nevermind.)

Poverty food, cuteness and politics aside, rabbit meat is very good, and good for you. Nutritionally speaking, it is low in fat, and high in protein; a 100 gram serving is 58% protein and 12% saturated fat, and while it is most often compared to chicken, it has a fuller, more rich flavor without being gamey or tough. It is a tender, fine-textured meat that is simple to cook, though I will give my opinion that, compared with chicken, it is difficult to debone. Therefore, I suggest to all first-time cooks that not only do they keep in mind that rabbit is a low-fat meat, meaning it will dry out if you cook it too long without sufficient moisture, it is also best cooked on the bone. Bones can be removed after cooking for some preparations, while in others, such as fried rabbit, it is not only acceptable, but desirable to serve it on the bone.

The only problem that remains is how and where to find rabbit meat to cook; it is not widely available in grocery stores, though it is possible in some areas to find it in the frozen meat section. I have had good luck finding it at North Market Poultry and Game in Columbus, Ohio, but of course, that doesn’t help people anywhere else in the country. Small farmers are typically producers of good quality domestic rabbit meat; check your local farmer’s markets.

Or, use the Internet to do the searching for you, and look up rabbit meat on Local Harvest or Eat Wild, two websites that list local farmers and their products in order to get the word out to consumers on where to purchase sustainable, organically produced foods in their areas. Local Harvest lists 202 rabbit meat producers across the country.

If all else fails, you can mail order frozen rabbit from Ardeng Rabbit Meat in South Carolina. The meat itself is priced fairly, but the shipping prices are likely quite steep.

What does one do with rabbit once one has obtained it?

The New York Times article lists two classic European traditional recipes for rabbit, and one variant on Southern US fried rabbit: the afformentioned Rabbit Ragu with Pappardelle, Caf� des F�d�rations’s Rabbit With Mustard Sauce (Lapin a la Moutarde), and Fried Milk-Brined Rabbit and Roasted Morel Salad.

In order to offer a bit more cultural variety, I’d like to add a recipe that I made from Fuchsia Dunlop’s excellent Sichuan cookbook, Land of Plenty: Rabbit with Sichuan Pepper. The addition of Sichuan peppercorn to the mild, yet rich rabbit meat is amazing, and I cannot help but think that anyone who loved authentic Chinese food would love this dish. Just be forewarned that boning out the rabbit meat is a bit time consuming, and it may be worthwhile to just leave the bones in and cut the meat into chunks, bone and all with a cleaver as the author suggested, but which I did not do.

Rabbit with Sichuan Pepper

Ingredients:

1 1/4 pound rabbit meat, deboned if you are crazy like me, and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
3 scallions, white parts only, thickly sliced on the diagonal
1/2″ cube fresh ginger, peeled and smashed with the side of a cleaver
1 tablespoon Shao Hsing wine
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil
8-12 Tien Tsin dried chiles, snipped in half, with most of the seeds removed
1 teaspoon freshly ground Sichuan peppercorns
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon raw sugar
2 heads Shanghai bok choi, rinsed, trimmed and cut into 1″ chunks (optional)
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 teaspoon sesame oil

Method:

Toss rabbit meat with the scallions, ginger, wine and cornstarch. Allow to sit and marinate at least thirty minutes, although, I think a couple of hours is better.

Heat wok until it smokes, add peanut oil. Toss in the chiles and ground Sichuan peppercorns, and stir, frying until very fragrant�about thirty seconds (This is one of those times that if you have a vent hood, you really need to use it. The hot chile oil is nothing to play with onces it becomes aerosolized.)

Add the rabbit and the marinade�watch out for splatters from the wine. Spread out into a single layer on the bottom of the wok and allow to brown on the bottom before starting to stir fry�about forty-five seconds to a minute. Then stir fry like mad. When most of the pink is gone, add the soy sauce and sugar, and stir and fry to create a thick sauce. If any of the marinade has begun to stick to the bottom of the wok, use the soy sauce to deglaze.

Add the bok choi, if you are using it and the broth. Stir and fry until the bok choi is crisp-tender, and the sauce has reduced and clings thickly to the meat and greens.

Remove from heat and add the sesame oil and stir it in well before pouring contents of wok into a warmed serving plate.

Serve with -lots- of steamed rice; the dish is spicy!

Note: The amounts on the chiles and Sichuan peppercorns can be adjusted down to the diners’ tastes. For those who are not used to such spicy fare, I would suggest using 4 whole chiles, and 1/2 teaspoon ground Sichuan peppercorns.

Courtesy of : Barbara Fisher

Basic Guidelines for Disease Prevention

Here are some basic guidelines to help prevent diseases:

Disease is natural and can never be completely eliminated, but through intelligent practices, you can usually keep it at a low level.
Disease prevention is much better than treatment.
High resistance, long life, and high productivity can be inherited. Breeding stock selected on the basis of superior performance will pay well for the time spent.
Do not overcrowd your animals.
Practice good nutrition.
Provide plenty of draft-free ventilation. Solid sided cages with wire floors cause up-drafts. These drafts are discouraged.
Let your animals have plenty of sunlight, as long as it is not very hot.
Keep all equipment clean and dry to minimize the chance of disease outbreak. Keep it in good repair.
Avoid unnecessary handling of animals, their feed, containers for food and water, or any equipment they touch. The clothing and hands of the attendant can spread disease.
Isolate all stock being brought into your herd, whether it be a new introduction or one of your own animals that may have been in contact with other rabbits either directly or through equipment and handlers.
Isolate animals suspected of having infectious diseases. Care for such animals after the normal ones have had their attention.
Protect your animals from disturbing influences, particularly night prowlers. Allow your animals as much rest during the day as routine care will permit.
If you sell rabbits on a regular schedule to a dealer, have marketable stock segregated and confined outside of the rabbitry entrance. The pickup man visits many rabbitries in rapid succession and will appreciate your help in keeping him from spreading disease.
All animal drugs are now under federal regulations. These regulations are designed to protect the public health and welfare by setting drug safety and tissue tolerance levels. The tissue tolerance levels made it necessary to establish specific withdrawal times and other warnings and cautions. The manufacturer's instructions, by law, are placed on the label of each drug container. Follow these instructions, warnings, and withdrawal times precisely. Observe all local laws and regulations governing proper drug usage.

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Conjunctivitis (Weepy Eye)

This condition is characterized by inflamed eyelids and a discharge from the eyes. Affected rabbits rub their eyes with the front feet until the fur around the eyes becomes wet and matted.

The cause of this condition is often a bacterial infection of the eyelids but may also be caused by an irritation from smoke, dust, sprays, or fumes. Mature bucks and young rabbits are most susceptible.

Treatment
Protect the animals from eye irritants. If irritants cause problems, you can usually clean the eye with a commercial eye washing product. The irritation will then clear up quickly.
If the eye does not improve, apply a 5% sulfathiazole or antibiotic eye ointment under the eyelids. A rabbit with pasteurellosis will often transmit disease organisms to the eye, so treat for this disease if symptoms are present. Eliminate animals with persistent eye problems so that they will not spread the disease.

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Pasteurellosis (Snuffles, Cold)
This may be an acute or chronic inflammation of the mucous membranes in the air passages and lungs. A mucus is discharged from the nose and eyes. Affected rabbits rub their eyes and noses. The fur on the face and paws becomes matted and caked with dried mucus. The infected animals usually sneeze and cough.

The disease is caused by a bacterial infection. It usually occurs when the rabbit's resistance is low or when it is under some stressed condition. Rabbits that have recovered from this disease acquire little immunity and often remain carriers.

Treatment
Treat this disease in its early stages with sulfaquinoxaline or other sulfa drugs. Follow a control program of tetracyclines to prevent a recurrence of the disease. Adding .025% sulfaquinoxaline in the feed for three or four weeks or sulfaquinoxaline in the water for two or three weeks reduces disease transmission to the young. You may use other sulfa drugs if you follow label directions.
Treat individual animals with an injection in the muscle of 200,000 units of penicillin and .25 gram of streptomycin for fryer sized rabbits. Give mature rabbits a double dosage. Repeat the treatment on the third day after the initial injection. Then use a tetracycline control program.

Cull infected rabbits from the rabbitry and replace them with breeding stock that comes from clean stock. Although clinical signs are not present, carriers of the disease have the bacterial organism in their nasal cavities and can transmit it to healthy animals.

Eliminate drafty, damp, unsanitary conditions in the rabbitry. Follow a strict sanitation and management program.

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Coccidiosis, Intestinal
Coccidiosis is the most common disease in rabbits. It may be classified as a parasitic disease since the causative organism is a microscopic animal (protozoa). It is very difficult to completely exterminate the protozoa once it has infected the animal. The protozoans causing this disease are classified as "coccidia," and those that infect the intestine are different from those that infect the liver.

Rabbits receiving the best care and management will often get coccidiosis. Symptoms in moderate or severe cases include a loss of appetite, "pot belly," diarrhea, and an inability to gain weight. In mild cases no symptoms may be observed.


Treatment
Follow a good management and sanitation program. Raise rabbits on wire floored cages that let droppings fall through the floor and away from the rabbits. Prevent fecal contamination of feed and water.
Control coccidiosis by feeding a .025% level of sulfaquinoxaline in the feed for three or four weeks, or in the water for two or three weeks. Other sulfa drugs (sulfadimethoxine, triple sulfa, etc.) may be effective yet provide greater safety from the toxic effects of sulfaquinoxaline. Amprolium in the feed or water may also be effective against coccidia.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Enteritis Complex (Bloat, Scours)
The literal translation of enteritis means "inflammation of the intestine." This group of diseases severely injuries the intestines and digestive tract. Symptoms of the diseases include loss of appetite, weakness, a drop in body temperature, diarrhea, rough hair coat, and weight loss. The abdomen may be bloated because of excessive production of gas in the intestines by disease organisms. The droppings may be covered by a mucus. The cause of the condition is not known.

Treatment
Water soluble chlortetracycline or oxytetracycline at a concentration of one pound to 100-150 gallons (4 grams/gallon) of drinking water may be effective.

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Caked Mammary Glands
This condition results when the milk is not removed sufficiently from the breast. It usually occurs after a high producing doe loses her litter, or when the breasts are sore and the doe refuses to nurse her young. The breasts become congested, and hard knots may form on the sides of the nipples. These knots may break open, revealing dried milk.

Treatment
If the caking is only moderate, oil of camphor rubbed on twice daily will break up the cake and the milk can be removed. Treatment for three to five days usually solves the problem, but high producing does may take longer.
Preventive measures are the best ways to correct the problem. Do not wean the young suddenly. If a litter is lost, breed the doe again immediately and carefully watch her for symptoms of this condition. Remove any sharp or protruding edges from nest boxes to prevent breast injury. Watch the doe carefully for mastitis infections that often follow caked mammary glands.

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Mastitis (Blue Breast)
Mastitis, a bacterial disease, is not common but is occasionally seen in rabbitries. The condition usually follows injuries of the mammary glands or caked breasts and can spread through the rabbitry very quickly. The mammary glands become inflamed, feverish, and swollen. The glands may turn bluish in color as the disease worsens. The doe will not eat but may drink plenty of water. She may have a fever as high as 105oF. or higher.

Treatment
You must start treatment early to be successful. Reduce milk production by cutting back on feed concentrates. Clean and disinfect the cage and equipment (especially the nest box).
Inject 75,000-100,000 units of penicillin into the muscle twice daily for three to five days. In severe cases it is best to destroy the doe and young.

Never transfer young from an infected doe to a healthy one. This complicates the problem and may spread the disease. You can hand feed valuable young by using a milk substitute. Correct any edges on the nest box that stick out or are sharp.

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Ear Mites (Ear Mange, Canker)
This is the most common external parasite infection of the domestic rabbit. An infected rabbit shakes its head and flops or scratches its ears trying to rid itself of mites. Thick crusts of mites and serum will accumulate inside the ear. In severe cases symptoms include spasms of eye muscles, nerve damage resulting in partial paralysis, weight loss, and secondary infections of the ears.

Treatment
Massage mineral oil into the ear every third day for four applications. The mineral oil will smother the mites. Follow-up applications smother mites hatching from eggs.
Another treatment is swabbing the ear with a mixture of 1 part iodoform, 10 parts ether, and 25 parts vegetable oil. Remove all scales and crust before swabbing the ear. Repeat treatment 6 to 10 days after first treatment. An alternate swabbing solution is 25-30% emulsion of benzyl benzoate in vegetable oil.

Treat all animals near the infected animal. Treat all newly introduced animals to prevent the ear mite from entering the rabbitry.

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Heat Prostration
Heat exhaustion can happen any time the temperature is above 92oF. Poor ventilation and high humidity contribute to the condition. Affected rabbits pant rapidly and lie on their sides. A blood tinged discharge may come from the mouth and nose. Death results unless the rabbit is treated. pregnant does are most susceptible.

Treatment
Any practice that lowers the body temperature of the rabbit helps reduce losses from heat prostration. Provide plenty of ventilation. Sprinkling water on the rabbitry roof may help reduce the temperature. You can put individually exhausted rabbits on wet burlap or immerse them in lukewarm water so the body temperature gradually drops.
Provide plenty of clean, cool drinking water. Rabbits often put their feet in the water to cool themselves. Provide additional salt spools for the rabbits.

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Ulcerative Pododermatitis (Sore Hocks)
You may see sores on the feet or foot pads. Few rabbits die from this problem, but their general condition is affected. Nursing does cannot feed the litter adequately, and breeding is hindered.

Sore hocks usually occur on wire floored cages. The tendency toward this condition may be inherited.

Treatment
Place animals with small sores on lath or solid flooring or on the ground until the condition clears. A rest board and soft, dry bedding material may help.
Cull and eliminate rabbits with severe or advanced cases. Medication works only temporarily. Zinc or iodine ointments may help prevent secondary infections.

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Over-all Solution
Follow good sanitation and management practices. Eliminate wires that stick out of cages and floors. Do not let floors stay wet.

Inbreeding : The After Effect

Inbreeding is breeding between close relatives, whether plant or animal. If practiced repeatedly, it can lead to exposure of recessive, deleterious (harmful to health or well-being) traits. This generally leads to a decreased fitness of a population"...

Definition of Inbreeding :

The act of breeding related animals that often leads to serious medical issues in the brain, organs and skeletal parts of the body as well as a suppressed immune system and significant decrease in fertility.

 

Inbreeding may result in a far higher phenotype expression of deleterious recessive genes within a population than would normally be expected. As a result, first-generation inbred individuals are more likely to show physical and health defects, including:

• Reduced fertility both in litter size and sperm viability
• Increased genetic disorders
• Fluctuating facial asymmetry
• Lower birth rate
• Higher infant mortality
• Slower growth rate
• Smaller adult size
• Loss of immune system function

* Source from Wikipedia

I Got My First Litters.............. It's 6-3=3

This morning, when I was ready to get out to my mum's house, I heard some noise from my bunnies hutch. So, I peek outside my bedroom windows and saw something in Cell No.5. My bunny had gave birth to some litters. I quickly grab a nestbox and hurried to the hutch. I never expect litters to come this soon. As I recall, I bred Nina on September 4th and the due is not until 4@5 October. But when I closely looked in the cell, I was shocked, It's not Nina that gave birth but Mimi, my black/White doe. But it's never mind, I manage to separate Nina from the cell.

Mimi gave birth to 6 little pinkish litters. but as I inspect the babies, 3 had cross the bridge, bridge to eternity. That's made me felt terrible. I think Mimi gave birth last night, during the heavy rain and some storm. If I notice the change earlier, they might been alive.

Here are some pictures of them.

 

And this is the mother, Mimi.

Rabbit Pregnancy & Gestation Table

The pregnancy usually lasts for 28-35 days but 90% of it given birth after 31 or 32 days. The litter is usually born at night, though you may notice the Doe pulling her fur out during the day. Most books say that rabbits build a nest 1 week before the litter is due but I find that they build it the same day the young are born.
If you see your Doe building a nest (gathering hay/straw and pulling out her fur) then make sure you provide her with extra materials to help build the nest. Don’t be alarmed if the Doe pulls fur from other rabbits she lives with. They don’t seem to mind too much and it may be because she doesn’t have enough of her own.
You need to feed her twice as much food as you would normally and this needs increasing to three times as much when suckling a whole litter of kittens.

This is a rabbit gestation chart. Find the date your rabbit was bred and look in the next column to the right to see what day your rabbit will be due.

Breeding Rabbits - Mating, and Pregnancy

How to Make Baby Bunnies - A Breeders Guide - Conception to Birth

When intending to breed rabbits, you should always ensure that you know what you are doing. Breeding should never be entered into light-heartedly.

Before starting to breed any animal, make sure that you know exactly what you intend to do with the babies once they are born. If you are keeping the babies you will need extra hutches and will need to buy extra food. Also, be aware that there is always the possiblity of complications during the birthing process.

Male or Female?

It is not easy to tell the sex of a young rabbit. But once the sexual organs have developed it is quite a straightforward procedure. To tell whether the rabbit is a buck (male) or a doe (female), you must first sit down with your knees flat. Tip the rabbit upside down on your lap, using your knees to hold the rabbit in place if it wriggles too much. Then put a finger at either side of the genital opening, and push the folds of skin lightly. If the rabbit is a buck, a small penis will protrude from the opening.

Mating

When breeding rabbits it is best to wait until the doe is at least six months old, and the buck is at least four months old before mating, this way both rabbits will have reached sexual maturity. To put the rabbits together you should always put the doe into the buck’s hutch, if you try to put the buck into the doe’s hutch she will become aggressive with him and will not accept him as a mate. The buck will initially chase the doe around his hutch, sniffing her rear and lifting her tail with his nose.

When the doe is ready for mating she will lie herself flat on the floor of the hutch and will raise her tail. At this stage the buck will mount her and commence mating (which takes approximately 20 seconds). When he has finished mating, the buck will normally fall off the doe’s back with a mouthful of her fur in his mouth. This may seem quite aggressive behaviour, however it is entirely normal for rabbits.

Inbreeding

When breeding rabbits it is essential never to breed brother and sister together, as this can cause congenital abnormalities. If accidentally a buck mates with a sibling doe, it is possible that young will not be deformed, but at the least they will produce smaller, weaker babies. It is possible however to successfully mate a doe with her father, or a buck with his mother, and this does not normally cause problems.

Pregnancy and Gestation

Not every mating results in pregnancy. Due to the fact that a doe must be in season to fall pregnant, sometimes it may take several mating attempts. If at all possible leave the buck and doe together in the hutch for up to 2 weeks, this way it will be highly likely that the mating will result in pregnancy.

Make a note of the date that you put the doe into the buck’s hutch in a calendar, diary, or notebook. That way it will be easier to work out approximately when the litter will be due.

The gestation period for rabbits is between 30 and 33 days, and when the doe is getting ready to give birth she will prepare a nest. This usually involves gathering the bedding into a corner of her hutch and a few days before giving birth she will pull some of the fur out of her stomach. This fur lines the nest for the babies, and also the process uncovers her nipples ready for feeding the litter.

The copyright of the article Breeding Rabbits - Mating, and Pregnancy in Pet Care is owned by Angie Briscoe.

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Salam AidilFitri, Maaf Zahir Batin

Nothing much to write today, just wishing all of my viewers Salam AidilFitri, Maaf Zahir Batin.

2 days ago one of bunny died of diarrhea. Don't know exactly the cause but it been suffering the illness for a few days. Maybe because of the long bean or maybe something else. The other two bunnies in the same cell didn't catch the disease. From now on I must feed them carefully. Anyway, Selamat Hari Raya again to all Muslims and friends.

Some Addition To My Collection.

Yesterday I received 4 more addition to my bunny collection. Not that my bunnies gave birth but my friend send me a gift. He send me 3 does and a buck. I'm not yet want to name them because 2 of them will be owned by my neighbor. She ask me to look after her bunnies for a few days until their hutch is ready. Here's the picture of the bunny.

( The grey and full white one is just a visiting pairs )

 

 

Conclusion's Made : She's An Angora-Dutch Cross

On 3rd September, I received a new bunny doe called Nina. I'm not sure about her breed so I start asking around. After a few brief discussion, some of my friends said she is Angora-Dutch cross, and some said she is Lionhead-Local cross, and even some said she's an oversized local breed. As a conclusion, I said she is an Angora-Dutch cross because the owner told me he bought this bunny with 2 others ( that's mean 3 ) for RM200.00, two years ago. That's already pricey even for 2 years ago.

I Got One More, Now It's 10!!!

Today, I got a call from a friend of mine, asking me to look after of his pet bunny. He has this bunny for more than 2 years now and he think that this bunny needs to be accompanied by a buck. So, this afternoon, before breakfasting, I went to his house to take the bunny. It's big and heavy. It has a nice characteristic. But I cannot figure out what breed is she is. Maybe I'll ask some of my friend over the internet. This bunny will be put in Room 5, to be quarantine for a few days.After that, I'll be introducing Jack to her ( from now on, I'll call her, Nina). Here is some of the picture of the doe.

 

So Little But Sooooo Pricy

Today, I received a phone call from Ming Yu 2’s Tokey. She said the new batch of bunnies already in store. I immediately grab my car key and drove there. Lot’s of new bunnies. Variety of colors and sizes. But all of them look too young to be sold or taken apart from the mother. The Tokey says that the bunnies usually came smaller than this. I looked around and found none of the bunnies interest me.

I manage to take some pictures of the bunnies in the shop.

These are Lionhead Bunnies ( RM 128.00/pair )

These are Angora Bunnies ~ That’s what she says ( RM 128.00/pair )

These are Local Bunnies ( RM 38.00/pair )

And this one she said it’s a Dwarf or Mini Bunny ( RM 68.00/pair )

If you look at the prices, you must be amazed that Chinese people always use 8 anywhere in business. They say 8 is their lucky Number.  My lucky number is when the calendar shows number 25. That’s my PAY DAY!.

I left the shop empty handed. So, I went to another pet shop. After browsing around in the shop, I found what I came for. A White Doe. I name her Snowy after Snow White. I took her home and put her in Room 4. After giving her a bowl of water and pellet, I introduce her to Jack, my English Lionhead buck. Jack immediately climb her back but she refuse. I just left them together. Hope there be some litter soon……..

Common Diseases of Pet Rabbits

Common conditions of pet rabbits include snuffles, hairballs, parasites, overgrown incisors, uterine cancer, and sore hocks.With proper attention to your rabbit's diet and living requirements, and with daily handling, many of these disease can be prevented. If you notice any changes in your rabbit's normal habits then you should seek your veterinarian's advice.

Uterine cancer
Uterine cancer is the most commonly reported cancer of female rabbits. Some breeds have a 50-80% incidence of uterine adenocarcinoma by the age of 5 years. Desexing (spaying) your female rabbit is recommended early in life (5–6 months of age) to prevent uterine cancer. Other good reasons to spay female rabbits are to prevent unwanted pregnancies, reduce aggression and help social integration with other rabbits.

Hairballs
Hairballs (trichobezoars) are relatively common in rabbits and should always be considered when a rabbit is lethargic and not eating. When a large amount of hair is swallowed during grooming it can form a ball in the stomach and form an obstruction if it doesn’t pass through the intestinal tract. Rabbits are unusual in that they can’t vomit.Diagnosis can be made by taking X-rays of the stomach. Early treatment by your vet is recommended to avoid the possibility of surgery. Treatment includes injection of drugs that alter intestinal motility and fluid therapy.Prevention is far better than cure. Feeding rabbits a diet high in hay (fibre) helps prevent hairballs and other intestinal problems. Daily brushing is also essential for removing excess dead hair and your vet may recommend using cat hairball medicine on a regular basis.

Parasites
Like dogs and cats, rabbits are susceptible to various internal parasites. Yearly microscopic examination of your rabbit’s droppings is essential to its health. Your vet will prescribe the necessary medication, depending on the findings.External parasites, such as fleas, ticks, mange, and ear mites can also infect rabbits. Again, the correct treatment needs to be advised by your vet, as many products used on other pets can be toxic to rabbits. The product Advantage is now registered for the treatment and prevention of fleas in rabbits (take care with very small rabbits). Never use Frontline or any other dog/cat flea control products on rabbits, and prevent your rabbit from licking your dog or cat if a topical medication has recently been applied to them.

Overgrown incisors
Rabbit’s incisors, or front teeth, grow continuously throughout their life. Normally, chewing on their food and on wood blocks keeps them a normal length.Sometimes this is not enough and the incisors become overgrown. The rabbit will be unable to eat properly and unable to groom. Its coat will become ragged and you will notice excessive drooling.Treatment involves filing the incisors under anaesthesia. Clipping the teeth is no longer recommended as they can fracture easily and become infected.

Snuffles
‘Snuffles’ is a common infectious disease of young rabbits caused by the Pasteurella bacterium. Symptoms include sneezing and a watery nose or eyes. Pasteurella can also affect other parts of the body and cause ear infections (resulting in a head tilt), abscesses (seen as lumps on the body) and uterine infections. Sudden death from septicaemia (infection in the blood) is rare but can occur.Most cases of snuffles are mild. Treatment involves antibiotics that are prescribed by your vet, as many are toxic to rabbits and injections are often preferred. Eye and nose drops may also be provided.Pasteurella, while easy to treat, is almost impossible to cure. Many rabbits develop a chronic (constant) infection and always have a snuffly nose or watery eyes. The disease is easily transmitted between rabbits, so new rabbits need to be housed away from existing pets for the first month. Stressful situations, such as the introduction of a new pet, new diet, or overcrowding, can cause relapses.Litter should be changed regularly to prevent ammonia accumulation from the urine, which can irritate the eyes and nasal tissue.

Sore hocks
‘Sore hocks’ refers to the development of open sores on the rabbit’s hocks. When a rabbit is sitting its hocks are in contact with the floor of the cage. Dirty housing conditions and wire floors with no bedding will cause the development of sore, red areas that become ulcerated and painful.Treatment can be difficult, especially if the condition is advanced. Antibacterial medications to clean the wounds are required and soft bedding provided to allow the sores to heal.Prevent the condition from occurring by providing adequate bedding and some solid floor area if your rabbit has a wire cage. Clean your rabbit’s hutch daily.

Rabbit Calicivirus (RCD)
Also known as viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD). The disease is almost always fatal and death occurs rapidly, within 12 – 18 hours, from respiratory and heart failure. There is no known treatment. Vaccination should be performed by your vet at 10 - 12 weeks of age. Only one dose is required at this time, then yearly boosters are required for continuing protection.Spread of the virus is by insect vectors (e.g. flies and mosquitos) so rabbits should be kept in mosquito proof hutches, or indoors, especially early mornings and evening when mozzies are most active.

Myxomatosis
Myxomatosis is a viral disease spread by insects (mainly fleas and mosquitoes) or direct contact with affected rabbits. There is no treatment and the disease is almost always fatal. Typical clinical signs include fever, swelling of lips, eyelids, ears & genitalia. Eyes are often swollen shut with a mucopurulent discharge. Euthanasia is the best option. Control is the best option. Keep wild rabbits away from pet rabbits to prevent the spread of the fleas, as well as practice good insect control. Keep rabbits in mosquito proof hutches or indoors, especially early mornings and evening when mozzies are most active and use flea control on your rabbits (Advantage) as well as other pets in the household.

Courtesy of : Dr Julia Adams BVSc

Napier For Bunny

Napier grass is a fodder grass that produces a lot of high-protein forage. It is also known as “elephant grass”, “Sudan grass” or “king grass”. Its scientific name is Pennisetum purpureum.
Napier grass is best suited to high rainfall areas, but it is drought-tolerant and can also grow well in drier areas. It does not grow well in waterlogged areas. It can be grown along with fodder trees along field boundaries or along contour lines or terrace risers to help control erosion. It can be intercropped with crops such as legumes and fodder trees, or as a pure stand.
The advantage of napier grass is that it propagates easily. It has a soft stem that is easy to cut. It has deep roots, so is fairly drought-resistant. The tender, young leaves and stems are very palatable for livestock and grows very fast
The disadvantage is that it is an aggressive plant that spreads through rhizomes under the ground. If it is not controlled, it can invade crop fields and become a weed. The older stems and leaves are less palatable for Goats or Rabbits.

Plant them angled into the ground at about 30 degrees, so two of the nodes are buried in the soil and one is above the ground. Plant more rows with a spacing of about 90 cm (3 feet) between the rows. Planting “slips” or “splits”* If you planting “slips” or “splits”, you do not have to wait a long time for the grass to grow before you can multiply it. Seedlings from the slips become established more quickly than those grown from cuttings. Cut Napier grass stems at ground level to remove all the green material. Dig up the clump of roots and shoots growing under the ground. Separate each seedling from the clump. Each seedling must have both roots and a shoot. Trim the roots to about 5 cm (2 inches) long. Plant the seedlings in small holes or a furrow. Cover the roots with soil, but leave the shoots open to the air. Planting whole stems is useful during the heavy rains, and in hilly areas where you need the grass to sprout quickly to cover the ground. Plant them along the contour to control erosion. Cut whole young stems of Napier grass, about 2 m (6 feet) long. Put the stems end-to-end in a furrow, and cover them with soil. Water immediately.
Weed the Napier grass plot regularly. If any of the cuttings die, fill in the gaps with new ones. Harvest the grass when it is 90_120 cm (3_4 feet) high. Harvest the grass following a pattern. Beginning at one end of the row, cut enough grass to feed your animals for 1 day. The next day, cut the next grass along in the row. Carry on until you reach the end of the row. In this way, you will always be able to cut fodder for your livestock. Apply liquid manure by digging trenches in between the rows of grass. Pour liquid manure into the trenches If the livestock do not eat all the grass, use the remainder as mulch or compost. Cut the grass 15_25 cm (6_10 inches) above the ground. Some farmers have found it is better to cut at ground level, though this may damage the plant too much. Fill in any gaps in the rows with fresh cuttings. Don’t use older stems as planting materials, as they will not germinate well. Don’t intercrop with cereals, as the grass will compete with the crop for nutrients and light. Don’t allow animals to graze on the napier grass, as they may damage or kill the plants. Don’t allow the grass to overgrow, as it may become a weed. Don’t allow the grass to grow too high (more than 120 cm or 4 feet), as Goats will not eat the tough bits.

Happy Planting!

Sexing The Bunny

Sexing your new bunny is important, especially if you recently adopted a pair of rabbits. If your rabbits are young, they should be separated by the time they are 3 months old to prevent accidental litters. It will also determine at what age you get your rabbit fixed, as males can be neutered at an earlier age.
Let's start with the basics- where to look. If you hold your rabbit on his back, look at the underside, between the rear legs, near the base of the tail. While it isn't always obvious, there are two holes here.

Here is a close up:

To see the openings, you should gently place your fingers and move them apart.

The opening closest to the tail is the anus. It will sometimes "wink" back at you. The opening closest to the belly is the genitals and the one we are going to examine.

Rabbit Food: A Healthy Diet

Contrary to popular belief, rabbits eat
more than just carrots and lettuce. Here
are some suggestions about what to
feed your bunnies to keep them happy
and healthy.

Hay
The bottom of a rabbit food pyramid
would contain long-stemmed fiber, in
the form of hay. This is the primary
food source for the wild cousins and
ancestors of the domestic rabbit. Hay
should be provided around the clock, which is called “free feeding.” Rabbits under one
year of age can be fed alfalfa hay, but as they get older they should be switched to grass
hay – timothy, orchard grass or a blend of grasses – especially if they are also being fed
alfalfa pellets. Buy the freshest hay possible and check for mold and dust, which could
make your rabbit very ill.

Vegetables
Rabbits count vegetables and herbs among their favorite foods. Most greens found in a
supermarket are safe for rabbits, with a few limitations and exceptions. Feed carrots and
vegetables in the cabbage family, such as broccoli, just once a week. Do not feed your
rabbit potatoes, corn, beans or seeds and nuts. These foods are difficult for rabbits to
digest and can cause serious digestive problems.
A general guideline for greens is to feed about a cup for every 3 to 4 pounds of the
rabbit’s weight daily. Here are some yummy suggestions: carrot and radish tops; broccoli
leaves; kale; endive; red, green and romaine lettuce; and dandelion greens. Rabbits love
fresh herbs such as mint, cilantro, basil, parsley and dill. For the young rabbit, add one
new vegetable at a time, and for all rabbits, watch for signs of loose stool or diarrhea.

Pellets
Rabbits under one year of age can be free-fed alfalfa pellets. As they age, the amount
of pellets to feed is one-quarter to one-third cup per 4 to 5 pounds of the rabbit’s weight.
As rabbits reach their senior years, around age 7 to 8, the amount of pellets may need
to be increased. Be sure to feed grass hay (rather than alfalfa) if you are feeding your
rabbits alfalfa pellets. Pellets based on timothy hay are also available and are a good
alternative, especially if your rabbit is gaining weight or getting too much protein in his
diet. Look for pellets with a high fiber content – the higher the better. Do not buy the
rabbit food with additives such as dried corn, nuts and seeds.

Treats
Rabbits have a sweet tooth! Treats are at the top of the food pyramid and should be
fed sparingly. Small pieces of fruit such as apples, strawberries, papaya, bananas and
pineapple are welcome treats. Never give your rabbit chocolate or other sugar-coated
treats. One small section of graham cracker or a teaspoon of Cheerios are OK, but these
should be given only occasionally.

Water
Give your rabbits fresh water every day. A rabbit will drink as much water each day as a
20-pound dog. Water bottles are acceptable, but your rabbit will be encouraged to drink
more if the water is in a heavy ceramic bowl.


This Article is courtesy of : Debby Widolf the coordinator of development and advocacy for the Best Friends
Bunny House.

3 Is My Lucky Number

Nearly a month goes by without any great news. My English couple didn't perform well. Maybe they are new and still learning. Kelabu, Putih and Brownie are getting bigger. Kelabu and Brownie are CONFIRM buck and Putih still a bit shy.
Today is the first day for all Muslim to perform fasting. It will be a full month of fasting. Today I went to the 'Pasar Tani' in front of Terengganu Trade Center. Lots of merchants and lots of buyers and passers by. My target for today is to buy minced meat for breakfasting.
Never find what I came for but instead I got myself a young light-grey doe. One of her ear seem dropped but the other one is okay. Maybe It's a crossed-breed from a local bunny with a lop ear bunny. Lucky me. I named her Jenny. One is not enough for me. I must find Jenny some friend.
I went to an old rustic pet shop in front of SK Pusat Chabang Tiga. There I found a Black/White local doe resting in her cage. Now I have two in my cage. I named this new one Mimi. As I wanted to leave the shop, a boy came to me and offer me 10 bunnies for a price of RM100. I looked at him and says that I only need does, no bucks. Out of 10 he has, only 1 is a doe. She is a White/light-yellowish-grey in color and I called her Nana. Now I have 8 bunnies all together. And this lucky does will be put in Room 3.

New Terrace With An English Tenant

Yesterday my bunny terrace was completed with success. The size is 10X2X2 feet. It accommodate 5 cells with average size of 2X2X2 feet. I put all my 3 bunnies into room number 1. They seem to like their new room. They hop, they jump and they chase each other.

This afternoon I make a visit to one of Terengganu local pet shop, Ming Yu Two. After asking to one of the worker, she take me to the bunny section. I see lots of local bunnies age between 2 month to a year old. Then something caught my eyes. A white bunny sitting alone in a cage. A very furry one. Looking at the price tag, I'm shocked. RM180.00 for a single bunny ?

This is a must have species. A Lionhead buck with a satin white fur. Without thinking more, I bought the bunny and also a mate for it. I choose a Grey local doe and put immediately inside the Lionhead's cage. Without a moment to loose, the buck immediately started the mating ritual. The Tokey saids that the Lionhead is already "puasa" for too long. I hope that the mating is a success and hope to get some crossed-breed litter soon. this couple will be renting Room 2, next to my teenage bunnies.

This is Jack, my English Buck.

 

 

1+2=?

After a few days alone, Kelabu finally get 2 new companions ( maybe on 20th July, I think ). One is called Putih and the other one called Brownie. At the age of less than 2 months old, I'm not yet unable to determine the sexes of my new addition. They need no introduction. Once inside the cage, all of them are sniffing happily together. I'm using a cage with the dimension of 2X5X2 feet divided into 2 cells. One is filled with my bunnies ( now they are three AGAIN! ) and the other cell occupied by 5 'Giant Chicken'. I think the bunnies must be moved to better environment. Maybe tomorrow I'll asked one of my friend to built a new house for the bunnies.

3 that start everything

In the month of July, Friday...( forgot the exact date ) I've decided to keep bunny for pet. It's a mix decision between cats or bunnies. Since the cat sometimes can be a bit messy with their poops, I've decided to take the bunnies ( they also makes a good cuisine ). At first my lovely daughters were against it, but after a short while they were fond of it. I start with 3 bunnies. But a after a week and everyday attacks by stray cats, only one survive. It left me with a grey buck ( we name it Kelabu ). The unlucky two were black/white and plain white does. After burying their remaining carcass, I made an upgrade to the cage. lifting it 1.5 feet off the ground and refitted the floor with 0.5X0.5 inch BRC making the cat unable to grab the bunny's feet. Now it's all okay and I've never seen the cats since then.